Review: The Rituals of Dinner
Rituals of Dinner is the sort of charming book that feels like a palate cleanser between scholarly tomes. That is just a facade, though. Margaret Visser has crafted a soundly built exploration of our table manners that supports her elegant tableware.
That said, Rituals abides in an odd niche. It’s scholarly, but not academic, informative but not authoritative, and traces the roots of ideas without being historical. In addition, Visser does not pretend to be unbiased. Her reasoned support for both the Emily Post and Miss Manners traditions warms this etiquette nerd’s heart. It’s not an etiquette manual, either.
It is an informed depiction of the range of behavior at the table focused on but not limited to American and European traditions. If you’ve ever wondered why knife etiquette involves where the weapon, er, utensil is pointed this is a book for you. Visser has spent many hours in the library.
The erudition would fall flat under lesser writing. She hits an impossible tone with perfect pitch. Digressions are just long enough and deep enough. The main narrative moves along briskly. Her organization lends itself to spending a few hours or a few minutes.
Strongly recommended.